Strange beauty.

After a great expedition to North Wales and the Northwest Midlands, we are back at our winter (2016/17) moorings; in Dukinfield, Greater Manchester.

We're actually within a couple of feet of the aqueduct over the River Tame, just onto the Peak Forest Canal, by its junction with the Ashton Canal and the Huddersfield Narrow Canal. The river is the boundary between Cheshire and Lancashire, so most mornings I walk from Cheshire to Lancashire, and back, to purchase my daily paper ... about a 10-minute walk!

Sad to report; this area appears to be home to the dirtiest people in Europe; as the amounts of garbage and dog-faeces on the sidewalks, streets, hedgerows and open spaces is the most dispiriting it has ever been our misfortune to encounter. Over the past 40 years; the British, as a whole, have become an incredibly rubbish-strewing society. Perhaps it is a symptom of successive governments encouraging the growth of greed; to the detriment of community spirit; ... who can tell?

ENOUGH!!! I must not sign-off the year in such a depressive mode. Whilst I view almost all the news on the national and international scene with something approaching horror; 2016 has been an excellent one for us, personally. With huge good news on the health front and a triumphal musical outcome in prospect (can't say exactly what, at this point ... hopefully, details in the New Year), we sometimes feel that we are surrounded in a comfortable, teflon, bubble!

This will be the last report from Watery Peregrinations, for 2016. We shall be, occasionally, taking Moonstone up the Peak Forest Canal; just for a change of scenery. We're only a few miles, and a few hours from the Derbyshire Peak District; with its beautiful scenery and invigorating walking trails. (Lyn's early Xmas gift is a stout pair of hiking-boots!) However ... beauty is not only in the eye of the beholder, it is also where you find it. Just a mile upstream from our mooring, we were walking the towpath, under a low railway bridge, when the sun reflecting off the surface of the water lit up the underside of the structure ... and lo ...

 ... well ... I think it's beautiful, anyway!

2016 has seen Moonstone - with Lyn and me on board - cruising along 805 miles of canals and rivers, negotiating 653 locks, groping through (about) 9 miles of tunnels, 'flying' more than 100 feet above rivers on 10 occasions ... and enjoying every minute.

Hope to see you next year. Tom (and Lyn).

See ya' later elevator!

This is the Anderton Boat Lift;

although, on this occasion, it's the boat 'lower' ... and we've just brought Moonstone out of the chamber on the left; having started fifty feet up above. It is a marvel of Victorian engineering; dating from 1875. Here's the Wikipedia entry.

However ... I've started at the wrong end of this part of the cruise. This is where we are now ... where were we? Ah, yes. I remember ... up the Peak Forest Canal to Bugsworth Basin, with our friends Eliza and Gordy (Portland, OR.) Once we had dropped off our friends at Macclesfield railway station, we turned around and went back to Bollington; (great folk club, where the wonderful Pete Coe was the featured guest) for a heritage narrowboat 'meet-up'.

Proceeding - once again - Westerly on the Macclesfield Canal, at Stoke-On-Trent, we turned off on the Caldon Canal, towards Froghall. We stopped off to visit the Cheddleton Flint Mill where the site is believed to have been used for milling since the Middle Ages.

Leaving Stoke-On-Trent, we started on our Journey to North Wales. Stoke was, once, world-renowned for its manufacturing of pottery (the area is known as 'The Potteries) and fine china. At the time, these 'bottle kilns' were a ubiquitous part of the landscape. Now, only a few have been preserved, to remind us of that heritage.

The Llangollen Canal is (comparatively) quite narrow and shallow. It is also unusual in having a flow of about 1mph; so the Westward journey was quite slow.

Having arrived at the 'World Heritage' aqueducts, we invited several friends to join us for the trip of a life-time: 'flying' 126 ft. above the River Dee, on the Pontycyllyte Aqueduct! More impressive Victorian Engineering ... this being just one of Thomas Telford's masterpieces.

We actually went back and forth a couple of times, and were very lucky with the weather; as we have been for the past month or more.

Coming down the Llangollen Canal was a tad faster than our upward journey, so we took a couple of days out to explore the - very small, very rural, almost deserted - Montgomery Canal. Then it was back; via the Shropshire Union Canal and the Middlewich Branch Canal; to the Trent and Mersey Canal. That connects the North Sea to the Irish Sea, from the headwaters of the River Trent to the Manchester Ship Canal.

Because we were passing the Anderton Lift, we decided to drop in (almost literally) to the River Weaver; one end of which is 'post-industrial', whilst the other is delightfully rural.

So ... the 'drift Northwards' continues but, for now, our sights are set on our return to our chosen winter mooring; on the Eastern outskirts of Manchester. Fingers crossed for reasonable weather. All for now folks. Tom and Lyn.

Rumours of my death ... (Samuel Langhorne Clemens)

OK; it's certainly been a while, and I'm running out of excuses. Laziness is NOT an excuse ... but it could be a reason.

I'm writing from Stoke-on-Trent, where we're mooring Moonstone whilst we are in Liverpool for the Labour Party Conference and Lyn's birthday ... 'though the two are in no wise connected. Lyn will be enjoying her first time in the city; whilst I explore my socialist conscience! (Anyone who wishes to discuss politics, please do; by e-mail.)

Over the past couple of months we've been based at a funky little marina, on the Eastern outskirts of Greater Manchester. The original plan (such as it was) did not have us so far North, at this stage of our peregrinations. However; a minor medical mystery incurred us being in this area, and that mystery has now been resolved in the happiest manner.

Our geographic location has meant several jaunts up the Peak Forest Canal; taking various Bitish, Canadian and American friends as far as Buxworth and Macclesfield. Bugsworth Basin is a beautifully restored ex-industrial transhipment terminal.




During and after the industrial revolution, large quantities of limestone were required. Much was mined in the hills above Bugsworth, brought by tramway to the basin, and loaded onto boats and barges to be used in multifarious industrial processes. Over the decades Bugsworth Basin became 'surplus to requirements' and fell into a sad state of disrepair. The local pastor of that small community felt that BUGsworth did not sound genteel; so prevailed upon the residents to accept a change of name to BUXworth. When the Basin Restoration Society was formed, the members resolved to reinstate the original name; so BUGSWORTH BASIN is now hard by the small village of BUXWORTH! Incidentally ... the only pub - The Navigation - used to be owned by one Pat Phoenix; (life imitating art); for many years playing Elsie Tanner: the landlady of the Rovers Return, in Coronation Street!




We can only wonder at the lovingly dedicated efforts of such a great group of local volunteers, who continue their work in maintaining and operating the basin; transforming it to this!!!

























Had we known that our cruising plans were to develop as they have; we would have taken Moonstone into the famous Albert Dock, and had our home with us at the conference; rather than the airbnb which will be our pied-a-terre. No matter. There should be plenty of us 'old lefties' to raise some union songs in the famous BALTIC FLEET.



All for now, friends, Tom.

Coconuts in the canal

It's been a while since I reported in, but Lyn and I have been quite busy. The trip to the Pacific Northwest was everything we would have wished ... and more.

THE WEDDING was a real treat ... the 'people watching' was world-class. Anna and Steve have the grandest mixture of friends; so we appeared to be seeing a melange of millionaire bikers, Hollywood execs, pirates of both genders, and a large posse of lovely, caring and talented folks. It was actually quite the privilege for us to be accepted as just part of the crew!

Anna making an honest - and very happy - man of Steve. Guess who coiffed Steve's hair?

Our return to British Columbia was poignant, and almost sentimental. Whilst it reminded us how lucky we had been, for three decades, and what great friends we have left behind; the visit engendered no sense of regret. That was then. This is now.

Laurie and Rollie took us down to their cabin, for a beautifully tranquil couple of days.

Well ... not until the result of THE REFERENDUM were announced, anyway. ;-)) (I've just noticed that my Irish Passport needs to be renewed. I must get right on that!)

Now; we are on our way up to Manchester, by way of a few side-trips. It's almost a hundred and fifty miles, so it will take us just over a week!

Ah, yes ... 'coconuts in the canal' ... 

Whilst we were meandering through Birmingham (about 2 months ago) we noticed, on a few different occasions, coconuts bobbing about in the water??? Recently; heading into Coventry; we again saw this sight and felt it to be strange; as there were no coconut palms anywhere in view! Chatting with a 'local' we gained the insight that: in areas of the U.K. where there are large communities of folks from the Indian sub-continent; there is a tradition carried out by folks living near the River Ganges. During funerals: grieving relatives deposit coconuts in the sacred river. The Ganges; being relatively remote from the U.K.; nearby rivers and canals are pressed into service, by local grieving relatives; as a substitute. Are we - we wonder - being too gullible, in accepting this explanation for the floating nuts?

We have now left The Saltisford Arm (Warwick) which has been our 'pied-a-terre' for a lot of the past 9 months. (Thanks Ian and Jackie!) Now we are heading North, to establish a new 'pied-a-terre' at the Portland Basin (at Dukinfield, on the outskirts of Manchester); with Sandra and Guy (boatyard owners).

As you might surmise; we are drifting - gradually - towards our house in Shipley, Yorkshire.

It has its own mooring; but when we'll actually get there ... ???

Hope you are all well. More anon, Tom and Lyn.

Before we head 'Way out West' ***

(*** the title of a wonderful Laurel and Hardy movie.)

On Wednesday morning we fly out, heading for San Francisco and points North. We're excited to be attending the wedding of a wonderful couple: Anna Benincasa and Steve Morales ... she's making an honest man of him, at last!

The nuptials will be in Healdsburg, CA., and shortly thereafter Lyn and I will take ourselves off to visit fondly treasured folks in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia. There will be only one, lonely, little gig on this trip; in Merville, on Vancouver Island. Before we head home we'll be running the gauntlet of several hundred buccaneers, at the Northern California Pirate Festival, in Vallejo, CA.

Since last I updated (I'm dreadfully unreliable, but then, you know that) this blog; we haven't been doing much cruising. Once we returned to the comforting embrace of the Saltisford Arm, we collected our car and headed - through the Channel Tunnel - to a lovely little festival in Blankenberge, Belgium.

Once the festival was over - by late of Saturday evening - we had Sunday off; so we boarded a tram for a 5-mile jaunt up the coast to Zeebrugge. I was particularly interested to learn about the British raid there; on St George's Day, 1918. In an effort - very late in the war - to prevent U-boat egress to the North Sea, a gallant attempt was made - by a British Navy and Marine expedition - to block the harbour and lock gates of the canal. British casualties were 583 men and German losses were 24 men; the raid was publicised by the British around the world as a great success and many medals were awarded. 'Twas ever thus!
"But what good came of it at last?" Quoth little Peterkin.
"Why, that I cannot tell," said he, "But 'twas a famous victory."
THE BATTLE OF BLENHEIM by: Robert Southey (1774-1843)

We'll be back, in about a month, just in time to cast our ballots in the 'United Kingdom, In or Out of the European Union' referendum. It's a question on which I might ponder more, were not the 'exit' camp being led by (the recent Mayor of London) Boris Johnson ... our version of Donald Trump ... and very likely our next Prime Minister ... God Save Us All!

My apologies that this report isn't, at all, 'watery'. We'll be cruising again in July. 'Til then ... A'dios.

Wandering along.

Not much to report, folks. After dozens of locks, and about twenty-seven miles, we arrived at the Black Country Living Museum, in Dudley ... exactly two miles from the other end of the tunnel which is too low for Moonstone.

This museum must be a favourite of ours, as this is probably (about) the fifth or sixth time we've visited ... there's always something we've not seen before. Sadly; the weather wasn't suitable (snow squalls!!!) for the fun-fair to be operating ... 

... we'll be back in the summer (excellent free moorings) so that I can have a go on that helter-skelter! The museum also has wonderful examples of the transport of ages past

... and here's the itinerant pastor!

Of course, this area has a huge canal-related history; so we were thrilled to see the steam-tug: PRESIDENT; starting out on a journey to tow its butty: Kildare; to Liverpool.

That's the Chief Tiffy leaning out of the engine-room hatch!!!

 Note the large blade of the rudder, necessary as there's no propellor.

The midlands has a long tradition of trades-union activism, so we enjoyed finding out about the chain-makers strike of 1910. Talk about: "There once was a union maid"! (I love the way Billy Bragg and the rest haul out their union membership cards at the end of the song. I do that!)



You can read about the chain-makers strike here.








Once we departed the Black Country Living Museum almost two miles of our journey South was actually UNDER the M5 motorway!

Once we left the urbanity of Birmingham a few miles behind, we pulled over at the small town of Knowle, for a post-office and groceries. Some of these lesser-known places have surprises in store. Of course this is England, so delightful churches abound ... 

... but we had never before even heard of a 'knot garden', viz:

So ... now we are moored at the Navigation Inn, near Kingswood Junction. We'll be having a visit - for lunch in the pub - from our daughter: Jane, our son-in-law: Max, and their dog: Spike. Speaking of canines; on Friday evening we were moored by 'BUNTS WOOD'!!! Sad to relate: we cannot report any sightings of a Heinz-57 Dachshund. :-((

More anon. Thanks for taking an interest. Tom.

Free at last. Free at last!

So there we were, in Gloucester Docks - a week ago last Monday - ready to head North on the River Severn, on Tuesday morning ... but; sadly; 'twas not to be.

It has rained quite a lot, recently, in England. Actually ... it has raided an AWFUL lot! This occasioned exceptionally high flows on the Severn; such that traffic was halted until the levels ameliorated. That didn't happen until last Monday morning! Gloucester Docks is not the worst place to be incarcerated aboard our cosy floating home, but six days is rather beyond a joke. However ... 
        ... once out of the lock, we found ourselves beating upriver against a 2-3 MPH current, and pleased to be achieving a speed (over-the-ground) of between 3/4 MPH. One tends to be fastidious when mooring, overnight, to a pontoon in a stream of 3MPH water. Even having double-checked before retiring; a fragmented night's sleep ia all that can be had.

After two days of 'bucking the trend', we finally entered the canal system at Stourport Upon Severn. Our hearts were gladdened to note that the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal has lovely narrow locks; only about six inches wider than Moonstone. This makes them easier - and faster - to negotiate, than the fourteen foot wide locks.

We made good time up through Kidderminster, to the junction with the (quite narrow) Stourbridge Canal; wending its way up through Dudley, to the southern end of the Dudley Tunnel. As this is so poorly ventilated; no combustion engines are allowed, so we were quite excited (we're easily excited!) at the prospect of being towed - by an electric tug - through a small, two-mile tunnel; into the Black Country Museum.

As Rabbie Burns (of immortal memory) tells us:
       "The best laid schemes o' mice an' men, gang aft a-gley".

Did I mention that, of recent times, precipitation rates have been somewhat excessive? The water level in the Dudley Tunnel is such that Moonstone was about three inched too high to safely negotiate said tunnel. BLAST!!! (or words to that effect.)

However ... we had a fallback plan. Should it eventuate that the Dudley Tunnel were to be impassable for us; Plan B would find us using the 'Dudley No. 2 Canal' and the Netherton Tunnel; a deviation adding only about 2-3 hours to our planned route.

However ... as Rabbie Burns (of immortal memory) tells us:

       "The best laid schemes o' mice an' men, gang aft a-gley".
During the previous evening, some spotty-faced young vandals decided to brighten their drab lives by joy-riding a 'cherry-picker' along the towpath of the aforementioned Dudley No. 2 Canal. The towpath not being quite wide enough for this unaccustomed vehicle, it toppled into the water ... thereby blocking the navigation in the middle of a narrow ravine. Viz:

So, Tom, (I hear you enquire) did you have a Plan C??? Well ... we do have options ... 

Option 1 - we can await the removal of the obstruction from the navigation; at the bottom of a fairly steep, and difficult to access, ravine. Canal and River Trust have no estimate of a time frame for this operation!
Option 2 - We can, similarly, await falling water levels in the Dudley Tunnel. God has given us no estimate of her time frame on this alternative.
Option - 3 Go the long way around ... entailing an excess 3 days of cruising. Oh, well ... Plan C it must be. Or ... 
Option 3 point 2 - we can shanghai a crew to assist our passage down the 30 locks towards our our newly mandated route!!! We managed to lure Mike Halpin and Hilary Spencer (yes; she of Artisan, Mrs. Ackroyd and Quicksilver)

to join us, and then pressed them into service. They've done this canal-boating thing before, so their service was invaluable.... three miles and 24 locks in less than three hours ... huzzah!

I'll let you know how we get on. Cheers, Tom.

STOP PRESS

Sunday morning.

We've just been informed that the impeding scissors-platform was removed from the canal about an hour after we turned around!!! &^%$£"^%$£&^%*)&^(*&