I TOLD you we were tired!!!

Alright, alright ... have some pity. There should be a "do not operate machinery - even a computer - after a day of hard canalling" warning somewhere around here. Yes - Yes -Yes - It IS still May. Thank you (all) for pointing that out.

We're on the outskirts of Reading; and 'way ahead of our cruising schedule ... hooray!

Our friend: Tony O'Neil; - he of the locking crew - reports that our anchor and chain have been delivered and now in the boot (trunk) of his car, and awaiting onward shipping. He'll bring them to wherever we are tomorrow (Saturday) afternoon, and then transport us to Graham Metcalf's 70th. birthday party. Lyn will be driving us back to the boat afterwards, when we shall likely be very tired again!

Today was - as forecast - a bit damp, so we were quite lazy for the forenoon hours. The sun is now shining, and the River Thames beckons ... although we shall resist his (Old Father Thames) blandishments until Sunday.

Day 4 (Friday, - yesterday wasn't, actually, Tuesday - 29th. May) 9 miles & 10 locks.

Erratum.

After posting the account of Days 1 & 2, I (belatedly) realized that I had neglected to mention the specifics of progress achieved. Here are the details ... 

Day 1. (Tuesday, 26th. June, 2015) 13.5 Miles - 28 Locks

Day 2. (Wednesday, 27th. June, 2015) 13 Miles - 23 Locks

 ... and to bring us up to date ... 

Day 3. (Tuesday, 28th. June, 2015) 15 Miles - 20 Locks

Now moored in a quiet little spot, just outside the quiet little village of WOOLHAMPTON. Lyn and I are both quite exhausted, so ... goodnight!

Devizes to London - Days 1 & 2

A daunting prospect.

We were off bright (sort of) and early (reasonably so) on our attempt at the North Face of the Caen Hill Flight (of locks).

We had barely started when we came across a group of vacationers, who agreed to team-up for the assault. They were a family of eight (two small children); so we would not be lacking willing bodies; even if rather untutored. However; they were quick learners, so we were several locks into the (total) 28, when our first recruits joined us ... Babs and Jim Hannis, from Gloucester. Jim is quite the talented melodeon player, so notes were quickly ringing around the locks. Shortly thereafter, Tony O'Neil turned up - from Maidenhead - so an extra voice was added to the vocal mix. About half-way up, our final recruit: Dave Field; came aboard; his personal windlass handle  at the ready.

WINDLASS HANDLE

Here's a picture of Moonston's locking crew after a restorative glass of ale! Where's Lyn?





Deciding to capitalize on a good start, Lyn and I we're soon back on the cut, for about 15 miles of 'lock-free' cruising ... getting almost to our the destination we had targeted for Day 2!!!

With lots of bird-song surrounding us (largely wonderful notes from Blackbirds) we were off early on Day 2 (07:30) in glorious weather. This was the perfect day, and season, for viewing the myriad of Blackthorn in blossom.




 Our conception of England as a crowded, built-upon, little island is being challenged by the beautiful miles of brilliant green scenery, with man-made structures nowhere to be seen.

So now we're in Hungerford; just a few hours cruising from Newbury; where we're hoping to purchase an anchor ... which we're told is 'an absolute essential safety feature' for river voyaging.






All for now, Tom.

That was the 'shakedown cruise ...

25th. May, 2015 ... tomorrow morning we start up the (infamous) Caen Hill flight of locks; our first challenge en route to London.

We've spent the past weekend singing up a storm. Thursday and Friday at Gloucester (pronounced: GLOSTER), for their inaugural Shanty Festival; then Saturday, Sunday and Monday at the 44th. Annual Chippenham Folk Festival. Both were great!

Lyn and I will be working hard for about ten days, in order to get Moonstone (and us) to London, in time for a gig at the Bowes Park Folk Club. I'll be posting updates as often as my exhaustion allows. Meanwhile ... ONWARDS AND UPWARDS!

Bristol to Bradford-On-Avon

Days 10 – 14

Just proceeding quietly (Eastwards) back towards Caen Hill Marina (Devizes); with stops in Bath to, again, catch up with family; and in Bradford on Avon to catch-up with my ‘ex’: Kate, and her husband: Richard. They brought delicious ‘fish and chips’ down to the boat, and a convivial evening was had by all.

Along the way we met up with old friend: Tony O'Niell and his recruits (pressed men and women) on a 'hire (rented) boat'.

Here they are entering one of the Locks in Bath.

It so happens that it is one of the deepest locks on the whole canal system ... nearly 20 ft.! 

In the evening, in company with the Dutch family from the other narrowboat, we all repaired to the ROYAL OAK; for some singing. Sadly; that hostelry was run by the most miserable publican it is possible to imagine. We were the last patrons in the bar when - at 9:45pm. - he called "last orders", and at 10 o'clock locked the door behind us. It is to be said that he was the subject of much derogatory conversation! 

A predominantly wet day (Thursay) discouraged boating; but provided enough bright intervals for a few snapshots around this pretty town.

... this is where they were stored ... 

In the middle ages, common practice had working folk of a parish 'donate', yearly, one tenth (a 'tithe') of all their labours, to the local church or monastery.

 ... in the Tithe Barn.

 

The weather (Thursday) not being conducive to travel, we lit the stove, read our books, perused the newspaper, did some crosswords, etc. and - generally - loafed around. Somebody has to!

Total progress, since last report, was: 27 miles + 14 locks. Weather: this is England ... what weather were you expecting?

More soon, Tom.

Leaving Bristol.

Day 9

Quiet day, but no (as promised) photo of Dylan. We did call in on John (the lock-keeper) as we departed the environs of Bristol, only to be told that, when he was leaving for work this morning, Dylan “didn’t seem very interested”! Probably no offer ‘of double-time for Sundays’, and Dylan is a staunch union member.

Leaving Bristol in our wake ... 

 ... we noticed that we were approaching a low bridge ... 

Not this low bridge ... 

 ... THIS low bridge ...

Around the several waterways of Bristol's harbour area can be seen boats of multifarious type and use ... 

Replica of John Cabot's ship: Matthew,

We moored early near a railway bridge, though a quiet one, as the train only runs four times each Saturday and Sunday; on a 6 mile run!

Total progress for the day was: 9 miles + 3 locks. Weather: Not great! More soon, Tom.

The winds of change ...

Day 8

Climate change? What climate change? The political barometer has swung, violently, to the right. The British (well ... the English and Northern Irish) electorate have voted in favour of even more punishment for those disgusting poor people, and much greater opportunities of enrichment for the millionaires ***. This despite the fact that living standards and average wages; over the past seven years; for the poorest eighty percent of the British population, have fallen, whilst; during the same period; the wealth of the richest ONE percent has doubled! (*** I refer here to Conservative Part Prime Minister: David Cameron; being returned with an increased, and outright, majority of Members of the British Parliament. Meanwhile; the Scots have repudiated both Labour and Conservative parties; voting for 56 Scottish National Party MPs, out of a total of 59 available Scottish seats in the U.K. parliament. They now become the third largest force in British politics! This election might well be the precursor to Scotland opting for independence, severing its constitutional ties and leaving the (dis)United Kingdom.)

 ... and this first leg of our grand canal adventure had been going so well! Both of us are almost physically nauseated by the announcement of yesterday’s election results.

Anyway ... you’re not reading this to hear me whining; so ... here is the cruise!

We departed the environs of Kaynsham immediately after a leisurely breakfast, almost immediately working through the penultimate lock, on our route to Bristol. Due to the greater depth of water in the river (relative to a four-foot deep canal) we can maintain a speed of almost 5mph, compared to the 3 – 3½mph we usually achieve. Greater speeds on the canals result in an unacceptable wash; which can result in canal-bank erosion and instability of G&T glasses on moored boats. The above mentioned, almost meteoric velocity, got us to Bristol in just over an hour. Our first rendezvous was with the lock-keeper: John 

(pictured with his office – defunct lock-keeper’s cottage – in the background; who monitors traffic into and out of Bristol Harbour ... this with the aid of his brindled hound: Dylan. We didn’t snap Dylan ... must do that when passing thence. John is a well-travelled Mancunian (native of the city of Manchester); spending the evening of his working life in an enviable position. John and I immediately struck up a warm friendship; he being of the same socio-political stripe as myself; and an old ‘folkie’ to boot! We sat in his office harmonizing a duet of The (Ewan McColl song) Manchester Rambler. Leaving him, smiling and waving, in our wake (figuratively, not in the river!) prompted Lyn and I to enter the port and harbour of Bristol singing rousing union and ‘social protest’ songs. Our melodies engendered much approval and encouragement from the harbourside. (Did they all turn out to vote yesterday, I wondered???) John had directed us to convenient, centrally located moorings; where we are currently tied up. My daughter: Jane; and her husband: Max; are driving down from Bath to indulge in a session of mutual commiseration ... though I suspect Max is not such a hard-line Trotskyite as are your author and his female offspring. Still ... it could be worse ... she could be married to a Tory!!!

Total progress for the day was: 7 miles + 1 (open) lock. Weather: bright overcast, with occasional light drizzle.

Day 8

The floating pontoon to which we are moored is neither sturdy nor large; and considerably shorter than Moonstone (58ft.) That, combined with blustery overnight weather, made the mooring noisy and unsteady; so sleep throughout the exceptionally stormy night was very spasmodic for us both.

The morning portended unpromising weather but, by lunch-time had brightened considerably. We rode our bikes to a point below the famous Clifton Suspension Bridge, then trekked up the steep path to the bridge and its Visitor Centre. I have long been an admirer – nay, a fan – if Isambard Kingdom Brunel; the Victorian engineering genius. We spend a couple of hours in homage, then collected our bikes and pedalled off to another of Brunel’s iconic artefacts: the S.S. Great Britain. 

Unlike Cary Grant, I.K. was not a Bristolian by birth, but the city celebrates him as one of their own. By the time we were heading back, the weather had a ameliorated to such an extent that we indulged ourselves with an ice-cream cone (shared) whilst sat on the sundrenched cobbles of the harbour wall. Tomorrow we retrace our route back to Wiltshire.

Total progress for the day was: 9 miles ... all by bicycle. Weather: varied.

Vote with y'r boat ... hoist Blue Peter!

Day 7
Polling day dawned bright and clear, the winds having moderated considerably. The winds of political change are, however, more variable. We rode our bikes to the polling station and then skipped out, en route Bristol. Being on the actual River Avon, we’ve been on a fairly wandering route through the Somerset countryside. Now stopping to gather our breath in Keynsham, just seven miles short of our chosen turnaround point, in Bristol harbour.

Total progress for the day was: 8 miles + 4 locks. Weather: clement.


Day 6
Between, and during, huge bouts of precipitation and very gusty winds, we moved Moonstone about one mile, and through three locks ... one of then the deepest on the canal system ... a drop of almost twenty feet. We were aided in this endeavour by Tom’s (17 year-old) grandson: Beck. When we arrived at our chosen mooring, the wind was too fierce for Lyn to keep hold of the head-rope. She tossed it back aboard whilst Tom performed an elegant and skilful ‘360’; before making a faultless (second) approach! Failed to convince Beck that: “It isn’t always like this!” The move to this part of Bath has proved to us that our set-up for receiving mobile-internet is actually working correctly. This episode will be sent from our dining table! Tomorrow we vote ... but for whom??? Is there anyone worth supporting?

Total progress for the day was: 1 miles + 3 locks (dropping 42’). Sails in rags. Crew soaked to the bone. Mutiny averted by generous libations of Calvados!

Day 5
Spent most of the day entertaining various family members on board the boat. Great to catch up with them! Jane – Tom’s lovely daughter – brought the mail. She’s our default ‘Poste Restante’ whilst we’re cruising. Mike –Tom’s son – guided us to an internet cafe, where we got a connection to collect e-mail and update this (b)Log.

Total progress for the day was: 0 miles + 0 locks. Weather: wet!


Day 4
Breakfasted and abluted (yes, Sue, I do know that’s not a real word!) by 8:30; incredibly early by our standards; we slipped our mooring and proceeded in a westward direction; toward the elegant, regency, city of Bath. Our route wended along hillsides, occasionally meandering across the river Avon to the opposite hillside, by means of small, stone aqueducts. Nearly ten miles of lock-free cruising brought us to the first of six locks, letting the canal down to join the River Avon proper. After just three locks we found very salubrious moorings in the pound (‘pound’ = the bit of water between adjacent locks) between lock #11 and lock #10; quiet, but just ten minutes walk from the centre of the city. Sadly; mobile (cell) phone signal isn’t really strong enough for a reliable internet connection. Tom made a lovely beef curry - the recipe a collaboration with Mrs. Patak - as we spent the evening with Callum, Tom's son's son & his lovely Mum, Helen. Together we watched the final frames - television reception very good - of the World Snooker Championship.

Total progress for the day was: 10 miles + 3 locks. Weather: intermittent sunny periods

Day 3.
Between showers – a local reference to the monsoon-like precipitations throughout the day – we took three walks around the environs of Bradford on Avon. We were delighted (though sadly, neglecting to have taken a photograph of the scene) to see a game of cricket being played on the local pitch; sandwiched between the River Avon and the canal. The delight was occasioned by espying that all members, of both teams, were dressed in ‘whites’; rather than the objectionable primary colours (emblazoned with sponsors’ names and logos) espoused, these days, by international sides. It’s heartening to know that the old standards are being maintained in remote corners of the Empire!

Total progress for the day was: 0 miles + 0 locks; (still) mooring overnight, just by the Tithe Barn. Weather: intermittent sunny periods, interspersed with generous downpours.

Total progress for the day was: 0 miles + 0 locks; (still) mooring overnight, just by the Tithe Barn. Weather: intermittent sunny periods, interspersed with generous downpours.


Day 2.
 ... no visible improvement in the weather, and still no milkmaids.

Stopping at Hilperton Boatyard, only to top-up with fuel (diesel, not beer; that’s already been topped-up) and propane (for cooking), we made the very short excursion to the delightfully picturesque little town of Bradford-on-Avon.

In the 19th. century, the city of Bradford, in Yorkshire, was named after this town; then a famous woollen-spinning centre; but lacking the ‘on-Avon’ suffix to its moniker. On becoming one of England’s pre-eminent centres of spinning (‘centre’? ‘spinning’? geddit?) Bradford,Yorkshire, declined to add ‘oop nawth’ to its name; thus the appellation of our current quarters. The fact that there are, in England, at least FOUR rivers called ‘Avon’, only adds to the confusion! Such is the bucolic nature of Bradford-on-Avon (Stratford, by-the-by, is on a completely different ‘Avon’) electronic communications here are extremely tenuous; so posting this chapter of the b(log) may require to be adjourned until Sunday or Monday.

Total progress for the day was (merely): 4 miles + 1 lock; mooring overnight, just by the Tithe Barn. Weather: indifferent!

Day 1.
Having make ‘all preparations for sea’, our first day started with our departing Caen Hill Marina at 1130 (quite early for us slugabeds); on the First of May. No milkmaids, washing their faces in the dew, where espied ... but they might have been at been doing so at dawn: the prescribed time for the ritual. (n.b. ‘slugabed’ reference above.)

We had a close encounter with, and cunning escape from, an itinerant band of Norwegian chanty-singers (pictured).

They were getting in touch with their Viking heritage on a narrowboat, rather than a longship. Having almost been taken captive, we eluded them by the crafty ruse of leading them to a canal-side pub (The Barge) and taking flight (at 3mph.) whilst they were otherwise engaged quaffing, Continental lager, of indifferent quality! Ale drinkers prevail again!

Lyn: having cycled the full mileage, and working all the locks - whilst Tom looked truly majestic at Moonstone’s tiller – was quite exhausted by the end of our first day; so a visit to a local hostelry was foregone ... not the usual conclusion! A quiet night ensued.

Total progress for the day was: 4¼ miles + 7 locks; mooring overnight, just below Semington Lock. Weather: indifferent!

Profuse apologies about the list <WateryPeregrinations@tomlewis.net> not being ‘moderated’ (I did warn you about ‘old dog, new tricks’!); which was why your replies went to all one hundred and seventy of you. Actually; 170 and is quite exclusive, when you consider that I made the (b)Log offer to almost two thousand souls (e-mail addresses). Problem now fixed!

Day 1.

Having make ‘all preparations for sea’, our first day started with our departing Caen Hill Marina at 1130 (quite early for us slugabeds); on the First of May. No milkmaids, washing their faces in the dew, where espied ... but they might have been at been doing so at dawn: the prescribed time for the ritual. (n.b. ‘slugabed’ reference above.)

We had a close encounter with, and cunning escape from, an itinerant band of Norwegian chanty-singers (pictured).

They were getting in touch with their Viking heritage on a narrowboat, rather than a longship. Having almost been taken captive, we eluded them by the crafty ruse of leading them to a canal-side pub (The Barge) and taking flight (at 3mph.) whilst they were otherwise engaged quaffing, Continental lager, of indifferent quality! Ale drinkers prevail again!

Lyn: having cycled the full mileage, and working all the locks - whilst Tom looked truly majestic at Moonstone’s tiller – was quite exhausted by the end of our first day; so a visit to a local hostelry was foregone ... not the usual conclusion!

Total progress for the day was: 4¼ miles + 7 locks; mooring overnight, just below Semington Lock. Weather: indifferent!

A quiet night ensued, with ...

Day 2.

 ... no visible improvement in the weather, and still no milkmaids.

Stopping at Hilperton Boatyard, only to top-up with fuel (diesel, not beer; that’s already been topped-up) and propane (for cooking), we made the very short excursion to the delightfully picturesque little town of Bradford-on-Avon.

In the 19^th. century, the city of Bradford, in Yorkshire, was named after this town; then a famous woollen-spinning centre; but lacking the ‘on-Avon’ suffix to its moniker. On becoming one of England’s pre-eminent centres of spinning (‘centre’? ‘spinning’? geddit?) Bradford,Yorkshire, declined to add ‘oop nawth’ to its name; thus the appellation of our current quarters. The fact that there are, in England, at least FOUR rivers called ‘Avon’, only adds to the confusion! Such is the bucolic nature of Bradford-on-Avon (Stratford, by-the-by, is on a completely different ‘Avon’) electronic communications here are extremely tenuous; so posting this chapter of the b(log) may require to be adjourned until Sunday or Monday.

Total progress for the day was (merely): 4 miles + 1 lock; mooring overnight, just by the Tithe Barn. Weather: indifferent!

Now we're in Bath (more later) we're working out of an Internet Cafe. Hopefully we'll get better connections in days to come.